After a bout with bronchitis and antibiotics that I could swear were meant for horses, we are back after a lengthy silence. Not one to take medication, I probably waited too long. Nevertheless, I am back on track and look forward to a nice glass of wine once the anitbiotics are done with. I recently had the pleasure of interviewing Ezra Cipes, Chief Operations Officer and son of the founder of Summerhill Pyramid Winery in B.C. Ezra passed on an interesting video and while I wanted to share it, I also wanted to know more about Ezra and why he was inspired to pass it on. Grab a glass of organic wine, sit back and be inspired!
EC: Summerhill is Canada’s largest organic winery. Has Summerhill always been an organic winery or was there a shift in philosophy at some point?
Ezra: Our family moved onto the vineyard in 1987 when we emigrated to the Okanagan from New York. The whole point of the move was a return to a more holistic lifestyle with the land, so the organic conversion started pretty much right away. The real challenge in converting to organic methods is not feasibility or economics. It’s overcoming the mental limitations; the feeling that chemicals or whatever are needed to ‘control the situation’. Our wine cellar achieved certification in 2007 under our great winemaker Eric Von Krosigk. The winemaker that Eric replaced was convinced it was impossible to go organic because he relied on caustic soda to control rogue bacteria from spoiling the fermentation process. You want to know what the organic solution is? Steam and ozone and scrub brushes. We are now working towards Bio-dynamic status in our vineyards.
EC: You’ll have to tell us when you achieve bio-dynamic status. Summerhill Pyramid Winery is more than just a winery. Tell me about the Pyramid.
Ezra: Ah, the pyramid. The pyramid is the wine’s temple and sanctuary, and it’s a bit of a spiritual beacon for people as well. The rational explanation concerns sacred geometry and the harmony of space and time. There is no electricity in the pyramid, and there is no metal in the construction. It is aligned to true north, and the angles and dimensions are a precise scale replica of the Great Pyramid in Egypt. So what you have is a very beautiful, still, harmonious energy in the pyramid. You have to go in there to experience it, I can’t explain it. But all of the wine ages there before it is put on the market, and this is our final clarifying and resting stage of production while the wine recovers from bottle shock.
EC: I’ll have to try it myself. Sounds like THE PLACE for wine tasting. Here’s a picture for the curious.

Summerhill Pyramid Winery
EC: Tell me, why should consumers choose organic wines?
Ezra: You have to look at organics on a holistic level. It’s as much about the health of your body as it is about the health of our soils and our water. Concerning the larger environment, obviously the larger the organic market share grows, the less land will be maintained with petro-chemicals, and that is good for our drinking water, our oceans, and maintaining the soils for the generations to come. Concerning the immediate environment of our bodies, there is new research that foods and grapes grown organically contain far more cancer fighting anti-oxidents. The hypothesis is that these compounds develop as the plant’s immune system works to live and resist disease and so on, and if you are constantly protecting the plants with herbicides, pesticides, and fungicides, as well as feeding it junk food with chemical fertilizers, these compounds will not develop in the eventual crop. (Never mind the systemic uptake of certain chemical products on the crop.)
EC: I recently discovered that I can drink organic wine after years of not drinking any wine. Instant hangover! Any ideas why I can only drink organic wines and other wine makes me feel quite ill even if I only drink 1/2 glass?
Ezra: A lot of people will tell you it’s sulphites, but sulphites only affect about 1% of the population, and they are in a lot of packaged foods, so it’s probably not that. (Some of our wines contain no sulphites, though.) A lot of people are affected by histamines, and those are mostly in red wines (ours too). So why does organic wine not give you the instant hangover that other wines do give? I don’t know, but a good percentage of our most loyal customers tell the same story.
EC: Thanks for passing the movie on to me. What struck you most when you first saw this movie?
Ezra: Well what struck me is that this is a document attempting to summon the political will for policy change regarding chemical food production, and I think that’s brilliant. As I said, economically it is feasible and I believe would be beneficial, and there is no shortage of scientific evidence making the case for organics. Of course there is always contrasting evidence funded by corporate interests and what have you, but come on! Scientific evidence can only get you so far. At some point people have to look inside themselves and ask themselves whether they believe the hype put forth by Monsanto and all the rest. Michael Pollan is a brilliant author on the subject, and he published an open letter to Barack Obama, but I don’t think the president took heed. A large scale change would take vision and chutzpah unmatched, and in the meantime we are going to have to content ourselves with the grassroots growing the organic market share every year in our own quiet way, and in turning on one consumer at a time, and touching their hearts. People balk at the extra cost of organics but I challenge the cynical perspective that sees the price of everything and the value of nothing.
http://nosenfantsnousaccuseront-lefilm.com/bande-annonce.html
EC: One final question. Since I have recently discovered that I can drink organic wine, could you suggest a couple of different wines that I should try. I am so new that you’ll have to help with what to pair them with as well.
Ezra: My favorite bottle that we make is called ‘Cipes Gabriel’. I can’t call it champagne, because champagne’s a place. but its the same thing only made in Canada. I would put the quality of this bottle up against French champagnes at twice the price and expect to come off favorably, and in fact we’ve won medals in France with this one. Drink it chilled at the beginning of an evening to get the vibe going, or pair with bread or starch to play off the earthy, yeasty notes, or salads to play off the acidity.
For a white, try our organic Gewurztraminer with sushi or curry. Gewurzt grows great in the Okanagan valley, with beautiful acidity that highlights the fruity notes and spice of the grape.
For a red try our Bio-dynamically grown Foch with the venison that your uncle brought home from the hunt, or pass it around the campfire and drink it straight from the bottle. Foch is hearty and rustic and should give you a wondrous rush of endorphins on your first sip. We don’t make much of it, and I drink most of it myself, so get it while you can.
EC: Thanks, Ezra.
I hope the movie touches you and inspires you to make change, including motivating your political representatives at all levels of government to lead the way for change. Next time you are sitting around the fire with friends drinking organic wine, toast to the health of our children.
Summerhill is B.C’s largest organic winery and vineyard. Ezra is the son of the owner/founder and the chief operations officer at the winery. He maintains a half acre organic veggie and herb garden that supplies their on site restaurant.